Sadia’s Blog

‘Fuwari’ seems to be the hot topic of discussion these days. I had several friends ask me if I had heard of what it was. Well, it indeed is a brand new concept of machine embroidery. It is a style of  3D embroidery that can be created using any embroidery machine and embroidery threads. The technique allows the threads in the designs to  stand up to 5mm vertical to fabric. Fuwari is a patented technique developed by Koma-Tech and marketed by Japanese company Shiro International.

A Fuwari design is digitized in similar methods as normal embroidery designs using the Fuwari CAD software, although from what I hear there is a bit of a learning curve. The method of digitizing involves locking the stitches in a unique method. A special fuwari pad is placed on top of the fabric or directly onto the embroidery hoop (I’m supposing if it is to be freestanding then wss would be used). Stitching is directly done on top of the special pad. The way heat is applied to the backside of the pad is what determines the direction of the stitches and can also permanently adhere the threads to any fabric. No more hooping, simply stitch out the design and apply to whatever you like. The design does require a specialty yarn cutting machine to cut the threads which then creates the “stand up” or fuwari effect. The heat press or iron used on top of the threads can create a straight stand up effect or a plush raised effect. The finished decoration is durable and will withstand laundering although extra care needs to be taken when ironing a garment. 

Only sharps (needles) can be used to stitch out the designs. It is preferable to use 80/12 and as I understand it a new needle should be used for every new design. I have heard that a special bobbin thread has to be used which is definitely thicker than our normal 50/60 wt bobbin threads. Floriani has already released designs using the method.

It is indeed an amazing concept and I can see several interesting and  unusual embroideries that can be created using the method. However, as Fuwari digitizing limits to bold shapes, at best it is for decorative use like sports jackets, childrens’ clothes etc. The concept in my opinion is a take off from foam embroidery except in this case the threads stand up rather than lay down. All that is needed to stitch out these types of designs is the Fuwari CAD software, a heat press or iron, a specialty yarn cutting machine and a specialty Fuwari pad. So, welcome to Fuwari or stand up embroidery…extremely interesting.

Added 1/28/08: Just found a video of the process on YouTube.