After several years of absence, the Sew Expo Atlanta was my first show after a long while. It was so great to meet up with friends whom I had not seen for some time as well as to acquaint with new ones. Moreover, it was great to see Carolyn and Evanlee, and share good times again.
I think the Sew Expo 2010 will be the most memorable conference I ever attended. My samples and creations of the past twelve years, managed to drop off the back side of my truck, somewhere between the Gwinnet Conference Center and Satellite Boulevard. It didn’t help that by the time I realised anything was amiss, several hours had elapsed and with the rain and heavy traffic, there was no hope of recovery. I was devastated for some while, but then pulled myself together and I hope to recreate better and elaborate samples in the coming years.
There were several new samples that I had created for the show, but the show
stopper was the Grace collection and the Battenburg I lace collection. I am glad that I did take some pictures of my favorite shirt using the designs but the t-shirt (of which I hadn’t taken pictures) is gone forever, until I re-create another. The white linen shirt with the designs from Marrakesh stitched in white on the front and the hemline and sleeves, as well as the neckline trimmed with the battenburg lace was stunning. I am a bit sad that I never got the chance to wear it even once.
The battenburg lace 1 is a wonderful collection of freestanding lace motifs which blend together to create edgings, insertions or lace panels.
Although there are only eight (8) designs in the first of the lace collection, each one is not only perfect in size and texture, but also allows the embroiderer the choice to create multiple different lace designs. The other most important factor is that the laces do not have to be joined in the hoop, rather they are extremely easy to join in the sewing machine without the hint of the joint ever showing. In the same manner, they can be attached to wearables and home decor items, whether as edges or as insertions. As both the top and bottom sides of the lace are alike, they make excellent candidates for insertion laces. The shirt shoulder, seen above in 
the close up is a prime example of my vision. My t-shirt was emellished in the same manner giving it a totally different look. The floral medallion was used as an accent on the back side of the shirt, giving a discreet peek-a-boo effect, romantic and vintage all blend together.
The battenburg lace 1 was the most sought after designs, even by those who didn’t own an embroidery machine! Years ago, when I had first created the battenburg lace collection, I always felt that there was some element missing and with the present collection, I’m proud to say that they fulfill the look and feel of the real tape lace. I hope to upload the collection to my website in the next few days as time allows.
There were several interesting items that caught my attention at the Expo. I saw more quilts and wearable quilts than I have ever seen before…yes, there are some patterns that followed me home. Batiks were the fabric of choice and I indulged there as well….despite my vow not to purchase any more fabric, until I finish the stash that I possess. All in all, the show was great and I was pleased to have attended it. Its memory will stay with me forever, and yes, I do intend to check the tail gate from now on.
Looking at the storms all over the US these past two weeks have encouraged me that Mother Winter is almost at the end of its
term and Spring is surely around the corner. At least, I want to think that way. Last December, I had already started the ground work for the first collection for 2010 and what better inspiration than to draw it from my paternal background of Kashmir. Kashmir is known as “heaven on earth” and heaven it is indeed. The snow laden mountain tops overlooking rolling hills of greenery and sweet smelling wild flowers besides lakes of an undescribable shade of blue. I can recall my mother’s stories of summers spent in Srinagar and my father’s youthful adventures while growing up. The stories pulled at me to recreate the legendary Kashmiri embroideries which are famously adorned on shawls and shirts. The Pashmina shawl on the right was embellished with designs from the mono-color scheme of Kashmir.
Most Kashmiri embroidery is self created without any set pattern. It depicts stories of the villages and reflects the 
beauties of the land. Florals are a constant within the various cultures that exist in the lands and that is what I chose for the designs in the collection. The designs are separated in two sub-collections: multi-colored and mono-colored. The wool scarf on the left shows the designs in the multi-colored scheme.
I know what some of you are thinking…how does one embroider on wool especially an item where both sides may be seen. What stabilizer should be used and should the bobbins be wound in the same color as the top 
color. Wool has to be handled carefully and if washed, it does have a tendency to shrink. Years ago, Rachel Stirling of stirlingembroidery.com had introduced me to iron away stabilizer which is ideal to use on items which cannot be laundered. The best way to remove the stabilizer is to place a piece of brown paper bag or paper on top of the embroidered area before using the iron. This way, the stabilizer sticks to the brown paper or paper. As for winding bobbins in the same color as the top color, I recommend loosening the top tension so the top thread covers the bobbin thread and it seems as if colored bobbin was used.
The designs have a distinctive shading and dimensional feel to them and can be used on a multitude of items for adornment. My utmost desire was to embroider and recreate a Kashmiri shawl. I have several, some antiques and handed down through my family while others were purchased or given as gifts. Most of the stitches used in these shawls is an elongated satin stitch or a single long stitch which I have tried to recreate in the designs. The only item in the designs that is different are the candlewicks, which are my own signature. The designs stitch out fast and
are for the 5×7 hoop, with special markings allowing the designs to be stitched out cotinuously.
Whiile I was dreaming up shawls and garments to adorn with the designs, my dear friend Carolyn sent off a picture of the most adorable velvet purse she created using the designs from Kashmir. I love her approach to colors and have always been amazed at how she presents them. Not only did she create the cute purse, but followed my instructions to create the scissor case that is included in the collection.
Another collection that has been on my absolutely “to do” list is the Battenburg lace collection. 
Years ago I had created the battenburg lace but always felt that it was still too heavy, so over the past few months, I have been working on perfecting the concept of the lace. Battenburg is actually a form of tape lace and one of my last posts were about perfecting the open joints of the tape. I am pleased that I left the open joints on the inside rather than on the outer edges. Either way would work in the making of the tape, though.
Hope to release both collections shortly before the Sewing and Quilt Expo Atlanta. I am planning on being there, booth 241, along with Carolyn from Creative Needlecraft.com.
2009 simply sped past faster than I could blink. There were a lot of life changes and events…but they seem to have passed by in a blur! No kidding…seems like it was just January and now it is December! Time flew indeed.
After finishing off this year’s to do list, I’ve finally been able to pay visits to many of my fave machine embroidery websites. Several things are a pleasant surprise while others pulled at my heart. Lots of new digitizers in the field gladdened me and it is a joy to see their visions and creativities, knowing that the art of machine embroidery is being carried on. The one thing that I cringed at was seeing single digit prices for quality designs. So many machine embroidery stores are offering sewing/quilting classes instead of embroidery technique classes, while several have closed shop. Embroidery machine prices, which were soaring sky high last year have dropped considerably, making it an ideal time for many to afford top of the line machines.
What is the future of machine embroidery and was it a fad? There isn’t a crystal ball to tell us about the future, but I do hope that the past two years of economic stress has brought about a sincere understanding of the market and real “wants” and “don’t wants”. Machine embroidery had become an expensive hobby and sadly so. For years I have been talking about the “re-marketing” of already existing products, which were re-packaged, over priced and misleading. Why does one brand of thread costs $1.50, whereas the same type of thread, and in the same quantity should cost $5.00? Why does the same stabilizer costs $5.00 a yard at one place and $25.00 a yard at another? To my simple way of understanding, it is nothing but outright “fleecing”. Folks, as they say it in the land of “Show Me”…”this jus’ ain’t right”.
I really hope and wish that the machine embroidery manufacturers would pay a bit more attention to setting prices that are realistic….(I paid $1200 for a machine five years ago, which can be purchased today at Wal-mart for $400!) Bells and whistles are great but let’s be realistic. No, I don’t think surfing the net on my embroidery machine, while embroidering on it is a necessity! No, I don’t think I should pay “beaucoup” dollars for a zoom lens camera (telescope lens!!) on my embroidery machine and no, I definitely don’t think I should pay top dollar for my machine today, when two years later, the price would be half of what I paid for it. Where is the integrity and honor? I wish and hope that the sellers of machine embroidery products, thread, stabilizers etc. would come to realise that they have “milked” enough and sell the products at realistic prices.
Did I forget designs? Unlike the machines and other necessary products to create machine embroidery, the designs are a different item altogether. No two designs are alike, therefore there can’t be a set price on them. However, a word of caution to digitizer friends. Please don’t under sell yourself. Another word…please stick to one price code.
The future of machine embroidery lies in our own hands and how we shape it. It is truly an art form which will carry on for years in our future and tell a tale of our creativity and culture. My one wish for the future of machine embroidery….create a product that will last.
December 28th,2009
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Some of my earliest attempts of recreating laces on the embroidery machine
were the Battenburg laces. Battenburg is considered a type of bobbin lace and at times referred to as tape lace. Modern day Battenburg laces are created by using tapes which are attached together by threads (hence the referral to bobbin lace). Retiring my original Battenburg lace collection, I had plans to recreating it in the proper manner in the future. Well, its six years later and I’m still not sure whether I have achieved the proper technique!
Battenburg laces nowadays are created by shaping a bias tape with threads in such a manner as to create an open worked lace panel, 
border, fabric, etc. The center of the motif created with the tape and thread has an entredeux type effect. The laces were extremely popular in the early 1900′s as they created the lace effect much faster than creating the laces by hand. Bobbin laces are nothing but thread overlapping one another to create the lace effect and do take a bit of time. Battenburg laces filled the over demand of laces, even though they were a bit crude as compared to bobbin laces.
Taking out my sketches for the vintage battenburg shapes, I found myself faced with the dilemna regarding the width of the center entredeux. Should I keep it at a minimal or have it pronounced? The idea 
is to recreate the Battenburg lace so it would mimic hand made laces, so the question is really answered for me….yet… I do think I’m my own worst enemy!
Using cotton serger thread, I stitched out one panel to check gauge and the shrinkage upon washing out the water soluble stabilizer, only to find that the cotton thread shrank far more than I had anticipated, leaving the tiny center entredeux into gaping holes. So, its back to the work table and even though I like the look of the open areas in the motifs, I can’t justify it as Battenburg lace.
The designs in the first collection of Battenburg lace are very simple 
and lend themselves to a variety of uses. But, before I can even send the designs out to be tested, I have to find the perfect look. You be the Judge and advice….I’m open to all suggestions and ideas. Should the entredeux be almost non-existant or should I stay with what I’ve created?
TO EVERYONE. Thank you so much for all your kind emails regarding the 2009 gift design. I would like to apologize up front in that I can’t respond to everyone here on my blog and personal emails. Therefore, my great big THANKS to everyone. HUGS to all and have a wonderful holiday season. Sadia
December 23rd,2009
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After six months and toying with the idea over and over, I’ve finally decided to close the Studio Forum. With that said, the Forum will be closing December 22. Perhaps in future, when I have more time, I may start again. Good wishes and adieu to friends who were members of the Forum.
Snowflakes are some of nature’s most fragile things and yet cast a beauty
that can’t be matched. Thus, are my snowflakes gift to friends all around the world. A bevy of snowflakes, each beautiful and unique in its own way, and a token to last a lifetime.
End of every year, I take pains in creating a set of designs for my machine embroidery friends. Last year, I decided to carry out a random survey from the lovely emails that I received. The purpose was to find out what 
friends really want to have. I have to admit it was an eye opener and a huge help to me in determining my selection for designs this year.
Hoop size is always a big factor for many friends, as are the number of stitches and number of colors. The one thing that everyone wanted were freestanding lace designs. With the wish list and ideas in hand, I started work. My initial thought was to create two snowflakes which would be fast yet useful for friends. Alas, the collection kept growing until a dear friend pointed out that Christmas is right around the corner, next week!
For friends I have created a collection of seven snowflakes which can be used in so many many ways
, from adorning the Christmas tree, to name tags on presents, scattered among dining table decoration, stitched out on clothing…the list goes on! Most of the snowflakes use only one color, except for a few which use a cluster of golden candlewicks in the 
center to give a festive look. The snowflake on the right has loops around each of the flake petal which can be used to attach pearls, beads etc, giving it a completely different look, as can be seen on the left.
Another look that was preferred by many friends was to create covers for glass ornaments. As I had already created several last year 
in my gift 2008, I really didn’t want to repeat them. However, I did decide to incorporate two designs which can be used by themselves as ornaments or as toppers for small glass ornament balls. The loops around the petals can be left alone or beads can be added for a festive look, as can be seen on the ornament on the right.
The designs are all ready andI hope to upload them and create the webpage very very soon.
My best wishes for friends all over the world, a very happy holiday season and a blessed New Year!
Since releasing Vintage Linen II, I have had numerous queries regarding 
the t-shirt neckline designs in the collection and requests to create something in detail about the process, hence the blog. Before I even show the procedure, I would like to say that there is no way for me or anyone else to create a neckline that would fit everyone. As we all have different bodies, the most I can do is to create a section. This process requires templates to be placed in such a way that will work best for each and everyone. However I do want to point out that all the designs from the Vintage Linen II cutwork collection can be used for a cutwork edge on a t-shirt and friends are not limited to just the neckline designs that are included as a bonus with the collection.
In my last blog, I had indicated using Pellon sheer weight fusible interfacing behind the t-shirt (especially the area that will be cutaway). The t-shirt 
shown here is a 100% cotton and I didn’t use any stabilizer, except water soluble vilene to stitch out the designs. Yes, I wanted to push the envelope to its limits and see what would happen. The difference between the two t-shirts is minute and I am going to leave it up to personal preference whether to use the interfacing or not.
To start off, we do need to print out real size templates of the designs. The designs I have used are the neckline designs in the collection. There are two designs which when joined together create one side of the neckline. So, I printed 
off the templates including mirror imaged ones for the other side. It helps to visually see what the finished project will look like before starting. I will recommend to friends to use a water soluble or air drying marking pen and mark their t-shirts prior to any embroidery. I am more of an eye baller and most times have been lucky, so please do use a marker to center the t-shirt neckline so you know exactly what you are doing. I will also 
recommend taking pictures with the templates to see how you like the effect. Try on the t-shirt with the templates to see if the neckline is not too deep or wide. Anytime I sew something for myself, I always first try it on my double to check the look. The designs have an alignment square which when matched, creates the complete design. Notice that I’ve matched them up in the pictures.
The t-shirt that I had shown in my previous post had quite a high neck. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find a single t-shirt which was similar to it, so I had to make adjustments in the center of the design. As you can see above, I over lapped the centers so I didn’t have too gaping a neckline.
With all cutwork, only a water soluble stabilizer can be used. I recommend water soluble vilene
which is so forgiving 
than any of the plastic type water soluble stabilizers. Only hoop the stabilizer and stitch out the alignment box and the cutwork outline (see pic right) directly upon it. These are the guidelines for us to position the t-shirt as well as an aid to multi-hooping.
With the printed template still attached to the t-shirt, place the t-shirt upon the stitched out cutwork outline and box, match and pin t-shirt to the stabilizer. Be sure to do this with the hoop removed from the machine and laid on a flat surface. I also opened 
some of the shoulder seam as well as cut into the ribbing. This will help in keeping the t-shirt flat and easy to handle. Be sure to keep the pins away 
from the design area and do not stretch the t-shirt.
Place the hoop back in the machine and stitch out the cutwork trimming zigzag stitch. To trim away the fabric, I highly recommend placing the hoop on a flat surface and then trimming. Trim to just the end of the zigzag stitch and not go past it. Fold the trimmed piece of fabric onto itself and pin it. See picture on left above. Place the hoop back in the machine and finish stitching out the design following the color chart. The design is multi-color, with the leaves and 
part of the edge in one color and the flowers another color with small gold or silver candlewicks inside the flowers and scattered above the leaves. If preferred, the leaves and flowers can all be done in
one color.
Part 1 of the design is completed! Cut away the stabilizer about an inch away from all the embroidery. Make sure not to cut out the alignment box as that will be necessary to match up the second part of the design. Hoop another piece of water soluble vilene and load part b of the neckline design. Stitch out the alignment box and the cutwork outline stitch directly on the stabilizer.
It is imperative that the alignment box match up. The rest of the design will naturally line up once the box is matched.
Follow the steps above to stitch out the second part. One side is completed and now you can follow the same steps to complete the other side. Be sure to mirror image the designs.
For the back side of the t-shirt, I used the plain edge design. But, as it was getting late and I was tired, I didn’t pay attention whether the design was up or down….result was that I ended up stitching the back side 
scallops upside down! It didn’t hurt anything except that was not what I had planned. Another thing… I found out that the scallop design can be used both ways, LOL.
Once all the embroidery is completed, sew up the shoulder seams and trim away all trimming threads. Rinse out all the vilene and better yet, soak the t-shirt, refreshing the water often. 
The end result…is not just any ordinary t-shirt! Have fun with this new method and experiment.
Note: I had the hardest time finding tshirts that were a bit more form fitting and without any buttons, frills and or writings. Seems like the plain T is no longer in vogue! Best places I did find form fitting PLAIN t-shirts were at Target and K-Mart.
the close up is a prime example of my vision. My t-shirt was emellished in the same manner giving it a totally different look. The floral medallion was used as an accent on the back side of the shirt, giving a discreet peek-a-boo effect, romantic and vintage all blend together.
